We had a great time on these two tours.
Seige Tour: This is a half day tour, and probably the most popular tour run by Funky Tours. You arrive at Skender’s office (a little hard to find at the end of a narrow dead end alley. Look for the graffiti of a solider saying “I defend this city”). As Skender drives you around, he shows and explains certain sites (i.e. sniper alley, the memorial for children), and shares his family’s own personal experience. The first stop is the War Tunnel Museum. A small section of the war tunnel (~30 feet) is open for you to walk through. There is a brief documentary shown, and a room with artifacts from the war. The museum does not provide anything in the way of commentary or descriptions, making it all the more important to go with a guide. Other stopping points included an abandoned hotel, and the 1984 Olympics abandoned luge track. Surprisingly, this was my favorite part of the trip because it was so beautiful and unique. We walked down the luge track and Skender picked us up at the bottom. We returned to the office right before lunch time. I would recommend Skender as he was informative and lively. Wear comfortable walking shoes with rubber soles, as the abandoned hotel has broken glass, shards, and crumbly steps.
Mostar Tour: This is a full day tour, returning you back to your hotel at about 6PM. Mostar is beautiful, but much more touristy and busy than we expected. Once you get to Mostar, I highly recommend paying the few extra marks for entrance to the Ibrahim Pasha Mosque so you can climb up the minaret for some stunning views. It is a tight and winding climb, so it may not be suitable for the claustrophobic. The drive to Mostar was broken up by several stops: another bridge, a castle, a visit to a sufi monstary. Wear comfortable walking shoes, especially if you plan to go to the top of the castle for some great views. Blagaj, with the sufi monastery is quite beautiful and serene. One minor complaint: Skender was not our guide on this tour. We did not realize he occasionally outsources to other consulting tour guides. Although the tour guide we ended up with was OK, we would have preferred to have changed our schedule to do a tour with Skender if we had known. Another minor complaint: you don’t take a lunch break until you reach your last stop, the sufi monstary, around 3PM. By that time, we were very tired and hungry and would have preferred to stop sooner. Also, although the restaurant is located by beautiful scenery, there are bees crawling over everything which is not fun to deal with when you’re that hungry and tired.
One more note: Skender will only offer a tour if he can get 4 or more people together. This may make planning a trip to Srebrenica difficult (we ended up having to book with another tour company as Skender could not find 2 more people).